The Koli Masala is the secret to why every dish served by Mumbai’s earliest inhabitants, the Kolis, is a riot of flavour. Dotting the city’s fishing villages or koliwadas are valandi (bamboo stilts) used to sun dry the local , Bombay Duck. When half dry, these make it to one of their most exquisite dishes - the Bambooke Bombil. While the recipe for this spirited curry is fiercely protected, we got our hands on the secret masala, made with over two dozen spices, that makes it truly stellar.
On nippy nights out on high sea, a Koli fisherman - or to lift the words from Hemant Kumar’s Marathi Koli geet – the Dariyacha Raja (King of the Sea) keeps himself warm with thoughts of his reward once he reaches the shore with his catch: Pochacha Kanji, a spicy succulent prawn curry well-known to generations of fishermen. The flavour base of this dish and most others of a cuisine nurtured by Mumbai’s indigenous residents, is the homemade, hand-pounded, preservative and colour-free Koli Masala.
A proud member of the Mumbai-based Koli community, Jyotsna Gajanan Dhone realised that the ancestral 27-ingredient spice mix she had grown up with and helped prepare at home every year with ritualistic reverence was nowhere to be found in the city of dreams. A cornerstone of the community’s cuisine, the Koli masala is a riotous medley of flavours which emerge only when specific locally sourced ingredients are roasted and ground in the perfect proportion. Using her family’s traditional recipe, Jyotsna pursued this passion project in 2020 while working from home. As word spread amongst friends, relatives, and fans of KoIi cuisine, it seemed everyone wanted a dash of her spice mix to serve their version of a quintessential Koli meal!
1.Wash meat and set it aside in a large bowl.
2.Take a kadhai or deep pan with four tablespoons oil and fry the chopped onions until nice and brown. Add the mutton pieces and mix well on high flame first, and then medium, until it is tender. This may take a while, so, if you are in a hurry, use a pressure cooker. Add a cup of water to the meat and keep it on high flame for two whistles, followed by 10 minutes on low flame. Allow the steam to release on its own. The meat should be soft and fall off the bone.
3.Peel an onion, and hold it with a tong on a low open flame to char it. Keep turning to cover all the edges with a charred finish.
4. Prepare the green masala by grinding ginger, flame-roasted onion, green chillies, mint and coriander. Make the black masala by grinding roasted-grated coconut and all the whole spices. Add a spoon of water to make a thick, luscious paste if needed.
5.Now, transfer both masalas to the meat and mix well. In the case of pressure cooker method, transfer the cooked meat into a deep pan and place it on medium flame before adding the two masala pastes. Mix well. The meat would have released its own juices.
6.Peel the potatoes and chop into long chips. Add to the meat. Now add turmeric, Koli masala and salt, stir and cook for 15 minutes with the lid closed on low flame. If available, add the triphala berries. They will give the curry a fragrant, woody touch.
7.To prepare the tempering, heat ghee or oil in a small frying pan and add crushed garlic cloves. Allow to sizzle for a minute before tipping the contents into the meat. Stir and cook for another two minutes.
8.Serve hot with Tandlachi Bhakri or Kolam rice, sliced onion and a lemon wedge.
1. Add sliced onions and coconut to a pan with four tablespoon oil and stir until the mixture roasts to a dark brownish. Grind the garlic, ginger and roasted coconut onion mixture to a fine paste.
1. Grind the coriander leaves, chillies and whole garam masala to a fine paste. Set aside.
1. Pre-cleaned crabs are available in seafood stores or your fish monger clean them for you. Ensure that the top, hard shell is forced open and detached (place them under running water and set aside), and the dead man’s claws that sit under this shell are removed.
2.Wash the crabs under running water while being careful not to get cut by the pincers.
3.To make the masala for the stuffing, heat oil in a pan and add the brown mixture and green masala and stir well. Add the turmeric and Koli masala, stirring continuously to roast the mixture. Take off the heat, let it cool. Stuff the mixture into the empty crab shells, packing it in. Place a dollop of the masala on top of the crab too and then gently place the shell back onto the crab and press it down to ‘shut close’. Repeat for all crabs.
4.Heat a wide, deep pan and arrange the crabs inside neatly. Pour in a little water near the sides of the pan so that the base of the crabs are dipped in water. After one boil, turn the flame down, close the lid and cook for 15 minutes on simmer.
5.Uncover the pan and gently flip the crabs over in the pan before allowing them to cook for another five minutes. By now, the gravy should have thickened and a robust masala should envelope the crabs.
6Serve hot with Tandlachi bhakri.
1.Take a vessel and heat two tablespoon oil. Add the half dried Bombay Ducks, garlic, chillies, Koli masala and turmeric powder. Mix well and sauté on medium flame. Add water, and salt if needed (dried fish usually has salt). Stir and cover the vessel. Cook on low flame for 10 minutes.
2.Garnish with coriander leaves and serve with Tandlachi bhakri.
Koli Masala: Seafood Masala is the resident masala of the Kolis, Mumbai's earliest inhabitants. This masala is used by every Koli household to make their delicious seafood dishes.
Aazol sources its Koli Masala: Seafood Masala from a lovely Koli lady residing in a fishing village in Mumbai.
Aazol's Koli Masala: Seafood Masala is made with Red Chilli, Black Pepper, Coriander, Clove, Mustard and Khade Masale (Whole Garam Masalas).
While Koli Masala: Seafood Masala is primarily used to make seafood, you can even use it to make other delicious non-vegetarian dishes!
Yes, Aazol's Koli Masala: Seafood Masala is completely vegan!
Yes, Aazol's Koli Masala: Seafood Masala is 100% gluten-free.
Aazol's Koli Masala: Seafood Masala is made using natural spices, so you can be rest assured that it is free of any preservatives.
Aazol's Koli Masala: Seafood Masala can easily last for 6 months, but owing to how tasty it is, we can guarantee you it won't stay on your shelf for that long!